Flashface.
make anybody’s face using this website it is really cool....
http://flashface.ctapt.de/.
SoundSnap.
free any sound effects and loops
http://www.soundsnap.com/.
Just Tons of Myspace Generators & Flash Toys To Use Everyday!!
http://pageplugins.com/.
want to play golf online:
http://www.wgt.com/
Here you can play with your webcam and view live video of yourself in silly effects!
http://www.sillywebcam.com/
Make your own animated movie online and email it to your friends.
http://www.digitalfilms.com/
A website dedicated to randomness. Flip a coin, roll dice, play card shuffler, engage in a third-party draw (requires login), generate a Jazz scale or make a lottery quick pick – all 100% random.
http://www.random.org/
Daft Punk rules! And now you can annoy your friends, family or co-workers with this idaft music station. Work the buttons using your keyboards or the screen. Makes for hours of fun!
http://www.najle.com/idaft/
Add spl effects to ur photo.
www.Photofunia.com.
Chat with a stranger:
http://omegle.com/
Sep 28, 2009
Sep 21, 2009
Block websites without any software
Steps
1] Browse C:\WINDOWS\system32\drivers\etc
2] Find the file named "HOSTS"
3] Open it in notepad
4] Under "127.0.0.1 localhost" Add 127.0.0.2 www.orkut.com , and that site will no longer be accessable.
5] Done!
example :
127.0.0.1 localhost
127.0.0.2 www.orkut.com
- www.orkut.com is now unaccessable
For every site after that you want to add, just add "1" to the last number in the internal ip (127.0.0.2) and then the addy like before.
IE:
127.0.0.3 www.yahoo.com
127.0.0.4 www.msn.com
127.0.0.5 www.google.com
This also works with banner sites.
How To Remove .exe Virus
Friends we all have experienced this newfolder.exe virus ,but we have not found a solution for this and i will help you to remove the virus permanently without using any anti virus software.
Procedure
1)Click on "START"
2)In "RUN"Windows type "REGEDIT".
3)Now you will see "registry editor" opened in a new window.
4)In registry editor---->select--> HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE.
5)Now under "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE" select--->"SOFTWARE"--->"Mcft"--->"WINDOWS"--->"CurrentVerison"--->"RUN".
6)Now on the right side select"RavTimeXP"
7)Right click on "RavTimeXP" and delete it.
8)Close REGISTRY EDITOR and restart your computer.
9)Again click on START--->SEARCH--->"FOR FILES OR FOLDERS".
10)Search box will open fill with current setting:
11)Now click on search(searching for .exe),after searching is finished...you will see the results:
12)Now here you have to delete whose icon is like folder and size 60KB or a little more than 60 KB or little small than 60 KB, and the file type will be "APPLICATION".
Now delete them all(REMEMBER NOTE TO DOUBLE CLICK ON IT,IF U WILL DOUBLE CLICK N THEM
THEN U WILL HAVE TO RESTART FROM THE BEGINNING STEP 1).
NOW Empty Recycle Bin.
Now you have removed the virus ,
enjoy..
Comments MOst Welcome
Procedure
1)Click on "START"
2)In "RUN"Windows type "REGEDIT".
3)Now you will see "registry editor" opened in a new window.
4)In registry editor---->select--> HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE.
5)Now under "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE" select--->"SOFTWARE"--->"Mcft"--->"WINDOWS"--->"CurrentVerison"--->"RUN".
6)Now on the right side select"RavTimeXP"
7)Right click on "RavTimeXP" and delete it.
8)Close REGISTRY EDITOR and restart your computer.
9)Again click on START--->SEARCH--->"FOR FILES OR FOLDERS".
10)Search box will open fill with current setting:
11)Now click on search(searching for .exe),after searching is finished...you will see the results:
12)Now here you have to delete whose icon is like folder and size 60KB or a little more than 60 KB or little small than 60 KB, and the file type will be "APPLICATION".
Now delete them all(REMEMBER NOTE TO DOUBLE CLICK ON IT,IF U WILL DOUBLE CLICK N THEM
THEN U WILL HAVE TO RESTART FROM THE BEGINNING STEP 1).
NOW Empty Recycle Bin.
Now you have removed the virus ,
enjoy..
Comments MOst Welcome
Explorer.exe not Running in Process
When you start Windows XP, an error may occur showing "explorer.exe not found".
Windows do not shows any icons or start menu. The screen will be blank
This occurs when, the file explorer.exe in the Windows folder.
You can try these methods to restore the file.
For this, you need the Windows XP installation CD.
Method 1:
1. Insert the Windows XP CD in the drive. (If Autoplay screen comes, close it.)
2. Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to Open Task Manager.
3. From the Files menu, select New Task (Run...).
4. Type sfc /scannow and press Enter. (or click OK)
5. This starts a process which replaces the missed/replaced files with original one.
Method 2:
Follow upto the 3rd step of the above method.
4. Type expand X:\i386\explorer.ex_ C:\WINDOWS\explorer.exe and press Enter.
The file will be replaced with the original one.
Method 3:
If Task Manager is disabled, you can repair Windows XP by this method.
1. Insert the Windows CD in the drive.
2. Restart system, enter into BIOS (press F2 / Del)
3. Change the first Boot device to your CD Drive.
4. Load the CD, and enter the XP installation wizard.
5. Continue to the selection of drive.
6. After selecting the drive of Windows, press R to repair.
Windows do not shows any icons or start menu. The screen will be blank
This occurs when, the file explorer.exe in the Windows folder.
You can try these methods to restore the file.
For this, you need the Windows XP installation CD.
Method 1:
1. Insert the Windows XP CD in the drive. (If Autoplay screen comes, close it.)
2. Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to Open Task Manager.
3. From the Files menu, select New Task (Run...).
4. Type sfc /scannow and press Enter. (or click OK)
5. This starts a process which replaces the missed/replaced files with original one.
Method 2:
Follow upto the 3rd step of the above method.
4. Type expand X:\i386\explorer.ex_ C:\WINDOWS\explorer.exe and press Enter.
The file will be replaced with the original one.
Method 3:
If Task Manager is disabled, you can repair Windows XP by this method.
1. Insert the Windows CD in the drive.
2. Restart system, enter into BIOS (press F2 / Del)
3. Change the first Boot device to your CD Drive.
4. Load the CD, and enter the XP installation wizard.
5. Continue to the selection of drive.
6. After selecting the drive of Windows, press R to repair.
Sep 1, 2009
Install A New Hard-disk
Running out of hard disk space, yet also want to keep all the files that are currently on the system in perfect order? Install an extra hard disk, and see your available space rise!
Firstly, make backups of your existing system files. You may never know when these may come in handy. If your current hard disk may go down the pan, you'll be glad to have something to start with again. Also, if you want to use all your data that is on this drive, back it up anyway; ready to be transferred to the new drive. Also, create a system disk for your PC. This can be created by going to Control Panel > Add/Remove Programs, and then the "System Disk" tab. The instructions should be there for you. "WHEN I INSTALLED MY EXTRA HDD I DDNT FOLLOW ANY OF THE ABOVE MENTIONED....INSTEAD JUST OPENED THE CABINET AND LOOKED FOR THE WIRES AND CONNECTED THEM ...ANY ONE CAN TELL WHERE THE CORRECT WIRE GOES ..... THE MAIN THING IS TO MAKE SURE THAT THE BROAD THIN GRAY WIRE OR DATA CABLE SLOT WITH THE WORD 'P2' IS CONNECTED TO THE EXTRA HDD"
Once you are prepared on the software side, turn off your PC and open the case to your PC (Please take proper precautions at this point. Anti-static wristbands and other such devices should be used. If you don't have these, just make sure you are properly earthed, and know what you are going to do. Oh, and please turn off the PC properly. I don't want you dying on me, literally!). The hard disk is the metal box shaped thing that is either the size of the floppy drive or it could be the size of the CD-Rom drive. It should be easy to spot, because it might even say "Hard Disk" on it. At this point, look and see where you can put the new drive, and how you are going to connect it up. If there is no hard drive in there, then don't worry; I'll explain how to connect it up as well.
Look at the end of the HDD. It should have a load of sockets and pins for you to play around with. At one point, you should be able to see some pins with some jumpers attached, and a sticker on another side telling you what configuration of jumper positions means what to the computer. If you are attaching it to the same IDE cable as your existing drive, then set it to "Slave", otherwise, select "Master" and fit it as close to the start of the cable as possible (The start of the cable being where it's connected to the motherboard). This cable is an "IDE" cable, and can only be fitted two ways to the drive itself. Look for an indication as to which side pin number 1 is (Look for stickers again!) and insert the IDE cable in that socket and pins, with the red side as close to pin 1 as possible. Then, just fit it into the computer, as you would do any other drive (For the thickies, which means attaching it to the case using the mounting screws that should come with the PC. Before you do this though, note down the extra information on the top of the drive, usually the number of cylinders, heads, sectors, and any other information. Next, connect one of the power cables to the HDD (These are the 4 cable collections with connectors attached, which leads from the power supply unit), and close the PC case.
Next, you will have to mess with CMOS. Turn on the PC, and hit whatever key you are told to at the bootup to get to the CMOS menus. When in there, choose the relevant section (We can't say exactly, because there are many different CMOS set-ups around) and select "IDE Auto-detection". If the hard disk does not appear on it, then you will have to enter the information manually. Use the notes you collected from the top of the hard disk earlier to tell the computer what the hard disk is.
IMPORTANT:
Afterwards, insert the system disk("THE BACKUP DISK THAT CAN BE CREATED BY RIGHT CLICKING A DRIVE4R AND SELECTING FORMAT AND THEN THE CREATE BACKUP DISK OPT") prepared earlier and "Save" your editing of the CMOS and exit. The system disk should work instead of the original hard disk (Or if you are installing from scratch, then it will boot from the A: anyway).
Type "fdisk" at the dos prompt. This runs a program called, surprisingly, FDISK. Tell the computer which drive ie the harddisk is the new one (Please choose the correct one at this point. Make a mistake, and you really could be using those backups!), and then tell it what partitions you want (Don't worry about it, as there are full instructions while you are running the program). Once this is done, you can reset your PC (Except if this drive is being installed from scratch and is on it's own. If this is the case, then you can format the drive by typing "format c:" This will format the drive for you, but what's really good is if you type "format c: /s" instead, as this installs some important files at the same time. Then, just follow the instructions to install whatever OS you are going to use.)
If you are adding this drive as a second HDD, Go into Windows (Or any other OS, but the instructions may be different!) and then format from "My Computer" like you would a floppy disk. There you go: A newly installed hard disk, with minimum effort!....and dont take the risk of formatting any of the drives u know!!!! if in doubt contact me here or don't do at all........."SOD will not be held responsible for any data lost in this process"
Firstly, make backups of your existing system files. You may never know when these may come in handy. If your current hard disk may go down the pan, you'll be glad to have something to start with again. Also, if you want to use all your data that is on this drive, back it up anyway; ready to be transferred to the new drive. Also, create a system disk for your PC. This can be created by going to Control Panel > Add/Remove Programs, and then the "System Disk" tab. The instructions should be there for you. "WHEN I INSTALLED MY EXTRA HDD I DDNT FOLLOW ANY OF THE ABOVE MENTIONED....INSTEAD JUST OPENED THE CABINET AND LOOKED FOR THE WIRES AND CONNECTED THEM ...ANY ONE CAN TELL WHERE THE CORRECT WIRE GOES ..... THE MAIN THING IS TO MAKE SURE THAT THE BROAD THIN GRAY WIRE OR DATA CABLE SLOT WITH THE WORD 'P2' IS CONNECTED TO THE EXTRA HDD"
Once you are prepared on the software side, turn off your PC and open the case to your PC (Please take proper precautions at this point. Anti-static wristbands and other such devices should be used. If you don't have these, just make sure you are properly earthed, and know what you are going to do. Oh, and please turn off the PC properly. I don't want you dying on me, literally!). The hard disk is the metal box shaped thing that is either the size of the floppy drive or it could be the size of the CD-Rom drive. It should be easy to spot, because it might even say "Hard Disk" on it. At this point, look and see where you can put the new drive, and how you are going to connect it up. If there is no hard drive in there, then don't worry; I'll explain how to connect it up as well.
Look at the end of the HDD. It should have a load of sockets and pins for you to play around with. At one point, you should be able to see some pins with some jumpers attached, and a sticker on another side telling you what configuration of jumper positions means what to the computer. If you are attaching it to the same IDE cable as your existing drive, then set it to "Slave", otherwise, select "Master" and fit it as close to the start of the cable as possible (The start of the cable being where it's connected to the motherboard). This cable is an "IDE" cable, and can only be fitted two ways to the drive itself. Look for an indication as to which side pin number 1 is (Look for stickers again!) and insert the IDE cable in that socket and pins, with the red side as close to pin 1 as possible. Then, just fit it into the computer, as you would do any other drive (For the thickies, which means attaching it to the case using the mounting screws that should come with the PC. Before you do this though, note down the extra information on the top of the drive, usually the number of cylinders, heads, sectors, and any other information. Next, connect one of the power cables to the HDD (These are the 4 cable collections with connectors attached, which leads from the power supply unit), and close the PC case.
Next, you will have to mess with CMOS. Turn on the PC, and hit whatever key you are told to at the bootup to get to the CMOS menus. When in there, choose the relevant section (We can't say exactly, because there are many different CMOS set-ups around) and select "IDE Auto-detection". If the hard disk does not appear on it, then you will have to enter the information manually. Use the notes you collected from the top of the hard disk earlier to tell the computer what the hard disk is.
IMPORTANT:
Afterwards, insert the system disk("THE BACKUP DISK THAT CAN BE CREATED BY RIGHT CLICKING A DRIVE4R AND SELECTING FORMAT AND THEN THE CREATE BACKUP DISK OPT") prepared earlier and "Save" your editing of the CMOS and exit. The system disk should work instead of the original hard disk (Or if you are installing from scratch, then it will boot from the A: anyway).
Type "fdisk" at the dos prompt. This runs a program called, surprisingly, FDISK. Tell the computer which drive ie the harddisk is the new one (Please choose the correct one at this point. Make a mistake, and you really could be using those backups!), and then tell it what partitions you want (Don't worry about it, as there are full instructions while you are running the program). Once this is done, you can reset your PC (Except if this drive is being installed from scratch and is on it's own. If this is the case, then you can format the drive by typing "format c:" This will format the drive for you, but what's really good is if you type "format c: /s" instead, as this installs some important files at the same time. Then, just follow the instructions to install whatever OS you are going to use.)
If you are adding this drive as a second HDD, Go into Windows (Or any other OS, but the instructions may be different!) and then format from "My Computer" like you would a floppy disk. There you go: A newly installed hard disk, with minimum effort!....and dont take the risk of formatting any of the drives u know!!!! if in doubt contact me here or don't do at all........."SOD will not be held responsible for any data lost in this process"
How To Convert File System, FAT - FAT32 to NTFS
How To Convert File System, fat - fat32 to ntfs
open a dos prompt and give the command
convert d: /fs:ntfs
this command would convert your d: drive to ntfs.
if the system cannot lock the drive, you will be prompted to convert it during next reboot.
Normally you should select yes.
Conversion from fat/fat32 to ntfs is non-destructive, your data on the drive will NOT be lost.
Be aware that converting to ntfs will make that partition of your
drive unreadable under dos unless you have ntfs utilites to do so.
open a dos prompt and give the command
convert d: /fs:ntfs
this command would convert your d: drive to ntfs.
if the system cannot lock the drive, you will be prompted to convert it during next reboot.
Normally you should select yes.
Conversion from fat/fat32 to ntfs is non-destructive, your data on the drive will NOT be lost.
Be aware that converting to ntfs will make that partition of your
drive unreadable under dos unless you have ntfs utilites to do so.
HoW to Change Thumbnail Size
If any of you out there like to use the thumbnail view, especially for browsing through photos and images, it can become a bit of a drain on your system. It is possible to lower the thumbnail size and quality by editing the following registry keys.
Open the registry and navigate to :
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\ Software\ Microsoft \ Windows\ CurrentVersion\ Explorer
Create a new DWORD value called ThumbnailSize, and set the value between 32 and 256.
And/or create another DWORD value called ThumbnailQuality, and set the value between 50 and 100.
Key Details :
USER Key: [HKEY_CURRENT_USER\ Software\ Microsoft \ Windows\ CurrentVersion\ Explorer]
Value Name: ThumbnailSize
Data Type: REG_DWORD (DWORD Value)
Data Value: 32 - 256
USER Key: [HKEY_CURRENT_USER\ Software\ Microsoft \ Windows\ CurrentVersion\ Explorer]
Value Name: ThumbnailQuality
Data Type: REG_DWORD (DWORD Value)
Data Value: 50 - 100
Open the registry and navigate to :
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\ Software\ Microsoft \ Windows\ CurrentVersion\ Explorer
Create a new DWORD value called ThumbnailSize, and set the value between 32 and 256.
And/or create another DWORD value called ThumbnailQuality, and set the value between 50 and 100.
Key Details :
USER Key: [HKEY_CURRENT_USER\ Software\ Microsoft \ Windows\ CurrentVersion\ Explorer]
Value Name: ThumbnailSize
Data Type: REG_DWORD (DWORD Value)
Data Value: 32 - 256
USER Key: [HKEY_CURRENT_USER\ Software\ Microsoft \ Windows\ CurrentVersion\ Explorer]
Value Name: ThumbnailQuality
Data Type: REG_DWORD (DWORD Value)
Data Value: 50 - 100
BURN QUICKER IN WINDOWS XP
Windows xp has burning software built in which can cause problems sometimes when burning with other programs.
you can turn windows xp burning tool off like this.
Go to "administrative tools" in the control panel.
In the "services" list, disable the IMAPI CD-Burning COM service.
you can turn windows xp burning tool off like this.
Go to "administrative tools" in the control panel.
In the "services" list, disable the IMAPI CD-Burning COM service.
How To Boot Xp Faster
First of all, this tweak only apply to those who only have one HDD on their primary IDE channel (nothing else on device 0 or 1) and a CD-ROM and/or DVD-ROM on the secondary IDE channel. Each time you boot Windows XP, there's an updated file called NTOSBOOT-*.pf who appears in your prefetch directory (%SystemRoot%Prefetch) and there's no need to erease any other files as the new prefetch option in XP really improves loading time of installed programs. We only want WindowsXP to boot faster and not decrease its performance. Thanks to Rod Cahoon (for the prefetch automation process...with a minor change of mine) and Zeb for the IDE Channel tweak as those two tricks, coupled together with a little modification, result in an EXTREMELY fast bootup:
1. Open notepad.exe, type "del c:windowsprefetch tosboot-*.* /q" (without the quotes) & save as "ntosboot.bat" in c:
2. From the Start menu, select "Run..." & type "gpedit.msc".
3. Double click "Windows Settings" under "Computer Configuration" and double click again on "Shutdown" in the right window.
4. In the new window, click "add", "Browse", locate your "ntosboot.bat" file & click "Open".
5. Click "OK", "Apply" & "OK" once again to exit.
6. From the Start menu, select "Run..." & type "devmgmt.msc".
7. Double click on "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers"
8. Right click on "Primary IDE Channel" and select "Properties".
9. Select the "Advanced Settings" tab then on the device 0 or 1 that doesn't have 'device type' greyed out select 'none' instead of 'autodetect' & click "OK".
10. Right click on "Secondary IDE channel", select "Properties" and repeat step 9.
11. Reboot your computer.
WindowsXP should now boot REALLY faster.
1. Open notepad.exe, type "del c:windowsprefetch tosboot-*.* /q" (without the quotes) & save as "ntosboot.bat" in c:
2. From the Start menu, select "Run..." & type "gpedit.msc".
3. Double click "Windows Settings" under "Computer Configuration" and double click again on "Shutdown" in the right window.
4. In the new window, click "add", "Browse", locate your "ntosboot.bat" file & click "Open".
5. Click "OK", "Apply" & "OK" once again to exit.
6. From the Start menu, select "Run..." & type "devmgmt.msc".
7. Double click on "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers"
8. Right click on "Primary IDE Channel" and select "Properties".
9. Select the "Advanced Settings" tab then on the device 0 or 1 that doesn't have 'device type' greyed out select 'none' instead of 'autodetect' & click "OK".
10. Right click on "Secondary IDE channel", select "Properties" and repeat step 9.
11. Reboot your computer.
WindowsXP should now boot REALLY faster.
How To Add A Url Address Bar to TaskBar
You can add an Internet URL address bar to your Windows XP taskbar. Doing so will let you type in URLs and launch Web pages without first launching a browser. It will also let you launch some native Windows XP applications in much the same way as you would via the Run menu (so you could type in calc to launch the calculator or mspaint to launch Microsoft Paint. Here's how you add the address bar:
1. Right-click on the taskbar, select Toolbars, and then click Address.
2. The word Address will appear on your taskbar.
3. Double click it to access it.
4. If that doesn't work, your taskbar is locked. You can unlock it by right-clicking on the taskbar again and uncheck Lock the Taskbar.
NOTE: You may also need to grab the vertical dotted lines beside the word Address and drag it to the left to make the Address window appear.
1. Right-click on the taskbar, select Toolbars, and then click Address.
2. The word Address will appear on your taskbar.
3. Double click it to access it.
4. If that doesn't work, your taskbar is locked. You can unlock it by right-clicking on the taskbar again and uncheck Lock the Taskbar.
NOTE: You may also need to grab the vertical dotted lines beside the word Address and drag it to the left to make the Address window appear.
How Do U See Hidden Files, Using DOS
Simple and useful tip
******************
at command prompt just type
dir /ah
if the list is too long u can use
dir /ah/p/w
*******************
******************
at command prompt just type
dir /ah
if the list is too long u can use
dir /ah/p/w
*******************
Hard drive gone bad
The most common problems originate
from corruption of the master boot record, FAT, or directory.
Those are soft problems which can usually be taken care of
with a combination of tools like Fdisk /mbr to refresh the
master boot record followed by a reboot and Norton disk doctor
or Spinneret.
The most common hardware problems are a bad controller, a bad
drive motor, or a bad head mechanism.
1. Can the BIOS see and identify the hard drive correctly? If
it can't, then the hard drives onboard controller is bad.
2. Does the drive spin and maintain a constant velocity? If it
does, that's good news. The motor is functioning.
3. If the drive surges and dies, the most likely cause is a
bad controller (assuming the drive is cool). A gate allowing
the current to drive the motor may not be staying open. The
drive needs a new controller.
4. Do you hear a lot of head clatter when the machine is
turned on and initialized (but before the system attempts to
access the hard drive). Head clatter would indicate that the
spindle bearings are sloppy or worn badly. Maybe even lose and
flopping around inside.
5. There is always the possibility that the controller you are
using in the machine has gone south.
1. If the drive spins, try booting to the A> prompt, run Fdisk
and check to see if Fdisk can see a partition on the hard
drive. If Fdisk can see the partition, that means that it can
access the drive and that the controller electronics are
functioning correctly. If there is no head clatter, it may be
just a matter of disk corruption which commonly occurs when a
surge hits you machine and overwhelms the power supply voltage
regulator. It commonly over whelms the system electronics
allowing an EM pulse to wipe out the master boot record, file
allocations table, and primary directory. Fdisk can fix the
master boot record and Norton Disk Doctor can restore the FAT
and Directory from the secondaries.
2. The drive spins but Fdisk can't see it. Try the drive in
another system and repeat the test to confirm that Fdisk can't
read through the drives onboard controller. If it sees it in
another system, then your machines hard drive interface is
bad. You can try an upgraded or replacement controller card
like a Promise or CMD Technologies (there are others) in you
machine after disabling the integrated controller in the BIOS,
but if the integrated controller went south, it may just be
symptomatic of further failures and you'd be wise to replace
the motherboard. Trying the drive in another machine also
eliminates the variable that your machines 12 volt power
output being bad
3. If you get head clatter but a constant velocity on the
drive motor (no surging), you might try sticking the hard
drive in the freezer for about 12 hours. This is an old trick
from back in the days of the MFM/ESDI driver era. This can
cause the drive components to shrink enough to make the track
marker align with the tracks. We don't see that kind of
platter spindle wear much anymore, but back in the old days,
the balancing and bearings weren't as good. Still, under the
right circumstances, it might help. It would depend on how old
the drive is and how many hours of wear have occurred. You
have to be quick to get your info off the drive when it works.
Back then, the drives were much smaller, so there wasn't so
much to copy. So, go after the important data first.
4. The drive doesn't spin. Either the onboard controller is
bad or the motor is bad (assuming you did try the drive in
another machine). It's time to hit the net and local
independent shops to see if you can locate another drive of
the same make and model that's good. Since the drive is
probably an older drive and no longer in distribution, your
best bet is to find an identical used drive. If you know
someone with the same make and model, you might be wise to try
and persuade them to sell you their drive with an offer of
providing them with a free upgraded drive. If you can locate
an identical drive, start with the controller replacement ...
this is the simplest and least invasive. If swapping the
controller doesn't produce the desire result, you can tear
into the drive and swap the motors. While you have both drive
opened up to accomplish this, scrutinize the platters, heads
and armatures. You might even hook the drive up and power it
from a system with both drives attached. This way, you could
see anything that deviates between the actions of both drives
when they are initialized. Swapping patters is unlikely to
produce any positive result. They are a balanced system like
the tires on your car and I suspect that the balance will be
different for each drive as will other variables.
5. There's always Ontrack Corp. who will attempt to recoup
your info starting at $500 and going up from there. They don't
fix and return the drive either.
If the info is all that important to you, I would seek some
professional and experience technician in your locality who
makes his living from servicing and building computer systems
... not just selling them. If you have had much experience
salvaging information from bad hard drives, your likelihood of
success is low. In the case of soft corruption, all utilities
have their eccentricities. Often times, Norton Disk Doctor
will go too far (if you let it). It's wise to just let those
utilities small steps and then have a look at the drive and
see if you can copy it off. Norton will go so far as to rename
directories and files, and even delete them or break them up
into fragments which are useless.
_________________
from corruption of the master boot record, FAT, or directory.
Those are soft problems which can usually be taken care of
with a combination of tools like Fdisk /mbr to refresh the
master boot record followed by a reboot and Norton disk doctor
or Spinneret.
The most common hardware problems are a bad controller, a bad
drive motor, or a bad head mechanism.
1. Can the BIOS see and identify the hard drive correctly? If
it can't, then the hard drives onboard controller is bad.
2. Does the drive spin and maintain a constant velocity? If it
does, that's good news. The motor is functioning.
3. If the drive surges and dies, the most likely cause is a
bad controller (assuming the drive is cool). A gate allowing
the current to drive the motor may not be staying open. The
drive needs a new controller.
4. Do you hear a lot of head clatter when the machine is
turned on and initialized (but before the system attempts to
access the hard drive). Head clatter would indicate that the
spindle bearings are sloppy or worn badly. Maybe even lose and
flopping around inside.
5. There is always the possibility that the controller you are
using in the machine has gone south.
1. If the drive spins, try booting to the A> prompt, run Fdisk
and check to see if Fdisk can see a partition on the hard
drive. If Fdisk can see the partition, that means that it can
access the drive and that the controller electronics are
functioning correctly. If there is no head clatter, it may be
just a matter of disk corruption which commonly occurs when a
surge hits you machine and overwhelms the power supply voltage
regulator. It commonly over whelms the system electronics
allowing an EM pulse to wipe out the master boot record, file
allocations table, and primary directory. Fdisk can fix the
master boot record and Norton Disk Doctor can restore the FAT
and Directory from the secondaries.
2. The drive spins but Fdisk can't see it. Try the drive in
another system and repeat the test to confirm that Fdisk can't
read through the drives onboard controller. If it sees it in
another system, then your machines hard drive interface is
bad. You can try an upgraded or replacement controller card
like a Promise or CMD Technologies (there are others) in you
machine after disabling the integrated controller in the BIOS,
but if the integrated controller went south, it may just be
symptomatic of further failures and you'd be wise to replace
the motherboard. Trying the drive in another machine also
eliminates the variable that your machines 12 volt power
output being bad
3. If you get head clatter but a constant velocity on the
drive motor (no surging), you might try sticking the hard
drive in the freezer for about 12 hours. This is an old trick
from back in the days of the MFM/ESDI driver era. This can
cause the drive components to shrink enough to make the track
marker align with the tracks. We don't see that kind of
platter spindle wear much anymore, but back in the old days,
the balancing and bearings weren't as good. Still, under the
right circumstances, it might help. It would depend on how old
the drive is and how many hours of wear have occurred. You
have to be quick to get your info off the drive when it works.
Back then, the drives were much smaller, so there wasn't so
much to copy. So, go after the important data first.
4. The drive doesn't spin. Either the onboard controller is
bad or the motor is bad (assuming you did try the drive in
another machine). It's time to hit the net and local
independent shops to see if you can locate another drive of
the same make and model that's good. Since the drive is
probably an older drive and no longer in distribution, your
best bet is to find an identical used drive. If you know
someone with the same make and model, you might be wise to try
and persuade them to sell you their drive with an offer of
providing them with a free upgraded drive. If you can locate
an identical drive, start with the controller replacement ...
this is the simplest and least invasive. If swapping the
controller doesn't produce the desire result, you can tear
into the drive and swap the motors. While you have both drive
opened up to accomplish this, scrutinize the platters, heads
and armatures. You might even hook the drive up and power it
from a system with both drives attached. This way, you could
see anything that deviates between the actions of both drives
when they are initialized. Swapping patters is unlikely to
produce any positive result. They are a balanced system like
the tires on your car and I suspect that the balance will be
different for each drive as will other variables.
5. There's always Ontrack Corp. who will attempt to recoup
your info starting at $500 and going up from there. They don't
fix and return the drive either.
If the info is all that important to you, I would seek some
professional and experience technician in your locality who
makes his living from servicing and building computer systems
... not just selling them. If you have had much experience
salvaging information from bad hard drives, your likelihood of
success is low. In the case of soft corruption, all utilities
have their eccentricities. Often times, Norton Disk Doctor
will go too far (if you let it). It's wise to just let those
utilities small steps and then have a look at the drive and
see if you can copy it off. Norton will go so far as to rename
directories and files, and even delete them or break them up
into fragments which are useless.
_________________
Getting Counter-Strike Source to work
Step 1- Download cssource_notcracked_beta_emporio.rar, cssource_cracked_emporio.rar and cssource_updates_emporio.rar (make sure this update is V2).
Step 2- Extract cssource_notcracked_beta_emporio.rar to a folder (for this example we will use E:/CS: Source*), then extract cssource_cracked_emporio.rar to E:/CS: Source*(overwrite all files) and finally extract cssource_updates_emporio.rar(V2) to E:/CS: Source* (overwrite all files).
Step 3- Make a NEW steam account(We will use Bob1g2** for this example).
Step 4- Now here comes the tricky part. After you have made a NEW steam account, get any counter strike: condition zero key (and no i won't tell you one) off the internet. Launch steam and click on Condition Zero in the Avaible Games list. Click on Register this product and click next. Once you get to the point where it says, "Steam is processing you request" open up Task Manager (Ctrl, Alt, Delete at the same time) and click on steam.exe and once the steam window has 1 bar that is yellow, click terinate process on the task manager.
Step 5- Open up steam again and check if Condition Zero is in your My Games list. If it isn't then repeat Step 3 using a different key untill you get Condition Zero is your My Games list. Once you get it in your My Games list then, download Codename Gordon and once it has finished downloading, launch it. Once you get into the menu, then click exit.
Step 6- Go into the folder where you installed steam and copy ClientRegistry.blob into the folder where you installed CS: Source.
Step 7- Go into the folder where you installed CS: Source and open up SteamApp.cfg.
Step 8- Once you have opened up SteamApp.cfg, edit it so it only has this in it:
CODE
SteamAppId=10
#SteamAppVersionId=0
SteamInstallPath="E:/CS: Source*"
# [as is clearified later on, this should be your email address:]
#SteamAppUser=aalb002@cafe.boomtown.net
SteamAppUser=Bob1g2**
Make sure you change the Bob1g2** bit to the new steam account you created and the E:/CS: Source* to where you installed counter-strike source.
Step 9- Make a sortcut of hl2.exe with these in the sortcut(without the quotes) "-steam -game cstrike"
*Change this to where you installed CS: Source.
**Change this to your new steam account.
Downloads
cssource_notcracked_beta_emporio.rar- fxp://cs.rivera.ru/games/Counter-Strike/CS_Source/client/cssource_notcracked_beta_emporio.rar
cssource_cracked_emporio.rar- fxp://cs.rivera.ru/games/Counter-Strike/CS_Source/client/V2/cssource_cracked_emporio.rar
cssource_updates_emporio.rar(v2)- fxp://cs.rivera.ru/games/Counter-Strike/CS_Source/client/V2/cssource_updates_emporio.rar
Limit is 100 users max
Other things you should know
Don't download the V3 update since that doesn't work yet.
If you get a error saying that you are not subscribed, then do steps 4-6 to make it work again.
If you get unable to set mode then do this:
go to your registry -> HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Valve\Source\Settings -> look up the entry "ScreenRefreshRate" -> doubleclick -> type your favourite monitor hz value into the field (i.e. 100hz, if your monitor can handle it) -> change the base setting from hexadecimal to decimal -> finished.
Some Servers
1. 66.199.235.42:27014
2. 24.141.2.86
These servers have being tested by me and are working.
Step 2- Extract cssource_notcracked_beta_emporio.rar to a folder (for this example we will use E:/CS: Source*), then extract cssource_cracked_emporio.rar to E:/CS: Source*(overwrite all files) and finally extract cssource_updates_emporio.rar(V2) to E:/CS: Source* (overwrite all files).
Step 3- Make a NEW steam account(We will use Bob1g2** for this example).
Step 4- Now here comes the tricky part. After you have made a NEW steam account, get any counter strike: condition zero key (and no i won't tell you one) off the internet. Launch steam and click on Condition Zero in the Avaible Games list. Click on Register this product and click next. Once you get to the point where it says, "Steam is processing you request" open up Task Manager (Ctrl, Alt, Delete at the same time) and click on steam.exe and once the steam window has 1 bar that is yellow, click terinate process on the task manager.
Step 5- Open up steam again and check if Condition Zero is in your My Games list. If it isn't then repeat Step 3 using a different key untill you get Condition Zero is your My Games list. Once you get it in your My Games list then, download Codename Gordon and once it has finished downloading, launch it. Once you get into the menu, then click exit.
Step 6- Go into the folder where you installed steam and copy ClientRegistry.blob into the folder where you installed CS: Source.
Step 7- Go into the folder where you installed CS: Source and open up SteamApp.cfg.
Step 8- Once you have opened up SteamApp.cfg, edit it so it only has this in it:
CODE
SteamAppId=10
#SteamAppVersionId=0
SteamInstallPath="E:/CS: Source*"
# [as is clearified later on, this should be your email address:]
#SteamAppUser=aalb002@cafe.boomtown.net
SteamAppUser=Bob1g2**
Make sure you change the Bob1g2** bit to the new steam account you created and the E:/CS: Source* to where you installed counter-strike source.
Step 9- Make a sortcut of hl2.exe with these in the sortcut(without the quotes) "-steam -game cstrike"
*Change this to where you installed CS: Source.
**Change this to your new steam account.
Downloads
cssource_notcracked_beta_emporio.rar- fxp://cs.rivera.ru/games/Counter-Strike/CS_Source/client/cssource_notcracked_beta_emporio.rar
cssource_cracked_emporio.rar- fxp://cs.rivera.ru/games/Counter-Strike/CS_Source/client/V2/cssource_cracked_emporio.rar
cssource_updates_emporio.rar(v2)- fxp://cs.rivera.ru/games/Counter-Strike/CS_Source/client/V2/cssource_updates_emporio.rar
Limit is 100 users max
Other things you should know
Don't download the V3 update since that doesn't work yet.
If you get a error saying that you are not subscribed, then do steps 4-6 to make it work again.
If you get unable to set mode then do this:
go to your registry -> HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Valve\Source\Settings -> look up the entry "ScreenRefreshRate" -> doubleclick -> type your favourite monitor hz value into the field (i.e. 100hz, if your monitor can handle it) -> change the base setting from hexadecimal to decimal -> finished.
Some Servers
1. 66.199.235.42:27014
2. 24.141.2.86
These servers have being tested by me and are working.
INFO ON THE HARD DISKS.
bit=0 or 1
nibble=4 bit
byte=8 bit
megabyte=1024 bytes
gigabyte=1024 megabytes
terabyte=1024 gigabytes
petabyte=1024 terabytes
exabyte=1024 petabyte
zettabyte=1024 exabyte
yottabyte=1024 zettabyte
xonabyte=1024 yottabyte
wekabyte=1024 xonabyte
vundabyte=1024 wekabyte
udabyte=1024 vundabyte
tredabyte=1024 udabyte
sortabyte=1024 tredabyte
rintabyte=1024 sortabyte
quexabyte=1024 rintabyte
peptabyte=1024 quexabyte
ochabyte=1024 peptabyte
nenabyte=1024 ochabyte
mingabyte=1024 nenabyte
lumabyte=1024 mingabyte
(?)byte=1024 lumabyte
nibble=4 bit
byte=8 bit
megabyte=1024 bytes
gigabyte=1024 megabytes
terabyte=1024 gigabytes
petabyte=1024 terabytes
exabyte=1024 petabyte
zettabyte=1024 exabyte
yottabyte=1024 zettabyte
xonabyte=1024 yottabyte
wekabyte=1024 xonabyte
vundabyte=1024 wekabyte
udabyte=1024 vundabyte
tredabyte=1024 udabyte
sortabyte=1024 tredabyte
rintabyte=1024 sortabyte
quexabyte=1024 rintabyte
peptabyte=1024 quexabyte
ochabyte=1024 peptabyte
nenabyte=1024 ochabyte
mingabyte=1024 nenabyte
lumabyte=1024 mingabyte
(?)byte=1024 lumabyte
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